The Gunks are a collection of foot or so high cliffs located just outside the town of Gardiner, NY. The cliffs offer pitch, staunchly traditional no bolts climbs with world-renown classic climbs at all grades from 5. There are four main cliffs The Trapps, Near Trapps, Millbrook, and Sky Top closed to the public and several other smaller crags located on the Mohonk Preserve, a nature and recreational preserve started by the Smiley family in the early 20 th century. The preserve charges a daily fee or you can buy an annual pass.
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Andrew Burr. The rock is solid quartz conglomerate with horizontal, rather than vertical, cracks. Drop down a few grades for your first lead to get a feel for the rock, the ratings, and to learn how to place pro in the horizontal cracks. September and October are the prime climbing months cool, low humidity , though it can be good in spring and summer as well.
Most of the Gunks is part of the Mohonk Preserve, a land trust dedicated to preserving and protecting the northern Shawangunk Ridge. The amount of gear you carry will depend on the climb, as well as your experience, ability, and familiarity with the route and with the Gunks. Most routes can be climbed and rappelled with a single meter rope. Double ropes can be handy, however, for the traverses, wandering pro, and roofs.
Many popular routes have bolted rap stations, but sometimes trees are used for rap anchors. Bring some webbing in case you need to beef up a sling anchor on a tree. The former free Multi Use Area campground will be closed as of May Want a roof? Reserve a room at the New Paltz Hostel.
Have the Bacchus Chili while you consider your options. Stay for live music. For sandwiches and small supplies, hit Bistro Mountain Store For real groceries, drive into New Paltz. Dick Williams who literally wrote the guidebook on Gunks climbing founded Rock and Snow , one of the premier specialty climbing and outdoor gear shops in the country.
Check in when you get to town. Take a class from beginner to expert or hire a guide from the Eastern Mountain Sports Climbing School. Bonus: It shares a building with Bistro Mountain Store. Brian Kim makes his way up The Winter Direct 5. Photo: Andrew Burr. High Exposure 5. This climb has bomber hands all the way up the third pitch, great gear, and enough air to keep you talking, smiling, and bragging about it forever.
Limelight 5. The second pitch roof traverse is the highlight. Something Interesting 5. In any case, this climb is incredible. Do this route! Son of Easy O 5. And what amazing surroundings they are. No more skiing, climbing, or dancing.
And no children. CCK Direct 5. If you blow it, it would be a nasty pendulum. Ridicullissima 5. The rock is stellar, the moves are challenging, and the gear is plentiful. Fat City Direct 5. The Yellow Wall 5. The pro seemed adequate, and the crux required total commitment. Brad Heller feels the exposure on Tripleissima 5. Get route beta, photos, and topos for the area at Mountain Project.
Home Places. This story originally appeared in the May issue of our print edition. By Jordan Achs. By JP Whitehead. By Liz Haas. Subscribe To Climbing.
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To help prevent the spread of the virus, we are ceasing operations for the month of March, April, May. We wish everyone and their families to remain safe and healthy during this time. Alpine Endeavors LLC is comprised of experienced, passionate climbers who are professionally trained guides and instructors. We offer professional climbing instruction and guiding to climbers of all ability levels for rock climbing, ice climbing, alpine climbing and mountaineering. In addition to our climbing services, we offer guided hikes and snowshoe outings in our local areas, navigation skills, team building events, and wilderness medical courses. If you are interested in climbing a specific climb, or looking to improve your technical skills, climbing ability, or general outdoor wilderness skills, we can help you reach your goals.
New Paltz (GUNKS) Climbing School
Andrew Burr. The rock is solid quartz conglomerate with horizontal, rather than vertical, cracks. Drop down a few grades for your first lead to get a feel for the rock, the ratings, and to learn how to place pro in the horizontal cracks. September and October are the prime climbing months cool, low humidity , though it can be good in spring and summer as well. Most of the Gunks is part of the Mohonk Preserve, a land trust dedicated to preserving and protecting the northern Shawangunk Ridge.
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The Gunks are world class climbing cliffs which draw thousands of rock climbers and boulderers each year; in addition to hikers , mountain bikers and those looking to enjoy the natural beauty of the park. The ridge is widest 7. At a maximum height of 2,ft from sea level , the Shawangunk Ridge rises above a high plain to the east which stretches all the way to the Hudson River. The Shawangunk Ridge is made up of a quartz conglomerate making the exposed rock very hard and resistant to weathering. We are happy to discuss options with you and can recommend the course or private guided day that will be right for you based on your experience and goals. Search emsoutdoors.
The Gunks, New York Climbing Destination Guide
As a result, we are announcing the following temporary climbing-route and bouldering closures:. Due to nesting Peregrine Falcons, the following areas are temporarily closed to rock climbing. The closure is in effect as of March 6, Peregrine Falcons are listed by the State of New York as an Endangered Species and we are legally obligated to protect their nesting areas at Mohonk Preserve. The Peregrine breeding season may possibly run through late summer.